Day 8: From Horton to Hawes - 14 miles

After the wet of the last few days, we woke to the prospect of a fine, dry walk over to Wensleydale. It was spring. The sun was shining. Most of today’s route was on firm and distinct tracks. All was well with the world.

It is a first-rate walk to Hawes, although the initial nine miles are steadily uphill. The developing views of Ribblesdale, Langstrothdale, Widdale and Wensleydale compensate for the effort. The one discordant note was on the boggy approach to Old Ing Farm. The hillside is torn and scarred with the tracks of racing quad bikes. The moment soon passes, the environs of the farm left after scrambling over a barricaded gate.

At some point above Cam Houses, we came upon a couple who had eaten in the pub the previous evening. It turned out that they were the leading pair of hikers we had spotted the day before. They were walking the first half of the Way as far as Bowes. It soon became obvious that they had climbed Penyghent in spite of the conditions. Naturally, we lied and claimed the same achievement .

To compound the offence, not wanting to appear to be wimps, we hinted that we had started on the trail from Edale, “Let’s see, err, a day or two after you...probably.”

Walking on ahead of the pair we admired the striking views from the Cam High Road, extending to Lakeland's Eastern Fells way to the west, southwards to Penyghent and east towards Buckden Pike. The Cam High Road and West Cam Road are ancient trails through the hills, probably older than the Roman occupation.

Annie, Graig and Jake the Labrador were resting besides the track on the West Cam Road. They were camping along the route and their loads were immense: 30lb and 50lb they claimed convincingly. They were looking to abandon some of the gear. I would have dumped the larger pack and fitted the dog with panniers!

We quickly warmed to the duo: they had skipped the Penyghent summit too! Jane had had a nasty scare at the Kinder Downfall, narrowly avoiding falling over the edge in high winds. During the subsequent note sharing, we had had an uncharacteristic fit of conscience and admitted to a second leg start at Ponden. We parted company friends.

On the picturesque descent to Hawes, we got a rare close-up view of a Lapwing with her chicks.

Once in Hawes our anxieties about securing accommodation passed. We quickly fixed ourselves up with a B & B. Hawes is another grand little spot, full of pubs, shops, cafes and visitor attractions. We anticipated a good night in Hawes. We were not to be disappointed.

After cleaning up, I went into a well-practised routine; out of the bag came the accommodation guide and phone. Disaster, Tan Hill pub was full. Keld's YHA and its B & B establishments had been booked for months. Changing tack: if we got a taxi from Tan Hill, at the end of tomorrows leg, the bed-range would be extended to include Bowes, Barnard Castle, Muker, Gunnerside and even Kirby Stephen.

All avenues proved fruitless. The world had evidently decided to spend the holiday weekend in the Dales: we had a problem.

Accommodation: Ebor House, Hawes (01969 667337)

£21.75 (inc. laundry)

This is yet another place to revisit sometimes. We got a warm welcome into a comfortable home. A real bonus was a laundry service at a minimal charge.