Day 14: From Garrigill to Longbyre (Greenhead) - 21.5 miles

Today’s was a long walk, with a sense that perhaps we had seen the best of the Pennines: ahead lay the Tyne gap, the Roman Wall and the Cheviots. The day was dry, though, and the walk along banks and pastures of the River South Tyne was just as fine as any valley saunter to be had anywhere. We did not visit Alston, but pressed on along the path, passing a group of travellers who were en-route to Appleby, with traditional horse drawn caravans.

Leaving the river at Slaggyford, we begged fresh water from the Hull born occupants of a converted old chapel, and paused for a natter: Bob, happily recalling his Humber birthright, joined in a reminiscence of the glories of Hull past and present. Not a fan of the city, I said nothing; I had spent a career avoiding a transfer to its insalubrious shores.

From Slaggyford we stayed with the bed of the old South Tyne Railway, now a walking and cycling track, to Lambley. The diversion from the official route saves nothing in time or distance. It is, however, a pleasant interlude of easy route finding and good conditions underfoot, with the prospect of inspecting Lambley’s graceful old Victorian railway viaduct. Whilst pausing for a snack we met another old veteran of the Way, breaking a long car journey with a breath of fresh air. Once achieved, it seems impossible to get the walk wholly out of one’s system.

I can add nothing to Tony Hopkins’s Trail Guide description of the bleak crossing from the South Tyne valley to the Tyne Gap:

“This is Hartleyburn Common, leading to the even more daunting expanse of Blenkinsopp Common. A wet desert of hair-moss and course grasses drifts away in all directions; sheep have a hungry look, birds are few and silent.”

This was another opportunity to hone compass skills; at first, there was no path, then just an intermittent trod in sodden, juicy ground. We met another walker heading for Lambley.

“Just keep heading for the trig pillar,” we were informed. “Good practice for the Cheviot, do you know? Much worse up there,” he added helpfully.

Wainwright’s pedantic view that the Pennine Way ought to have finished, with the Pennine range itself, at the Wall, began to take on a new, disquieting resonance. I reasoned, however, that the judgement of anyone who actually chooses an outing to Blenkinsopp Common for an afternoon’s hike must be somewhat suspect.

We arrived late and tired at our digs at Longbyre, just a couple of hundred yards up the road from Thirwall Castle. Whilst within sight of the day’s destination we had wandered off route into a wrong pasture: it was only a five-minute diversion, but annoying at the end of what was already the longest day of the trip.

The choice of Four Wynds for the night was another inspired accident: comfy, homely and welcoming, with laundry service thrown in, together with the bonus of a lift to a pub at Gilsland. The pub was refreshing too: nicely off the route, not at all touristy and busy with locals.

Accommodation:

Ross and George Bonnar, Four Wynds, Longbyre (016977 47330)

£25.00 (including laundry)

This is another recommended establishment.