It would be another short day, and a gentle one at that. It was raining when we left the hostel. It rained much of the way to Malham. The walk is an agreeable lowland saunter. Gentle hillocks, a canal side ramble and a satisfying stroll along the infant Aire, in improving surroundings, to the tourist honey pot of Malham.
The first highlight was the café at Gargrave, for a late but welcome breakfast. On a walk like the Pennine Way, it is difficult to pass the prospect of a decent pot of tea. The staff even contrived to convey an apparently genuine admiration of our (walking) prowess: it didn’t get them a tip though; Robert is of Scottish parentage..
The Aire was high after the rain. The path was muddy ooze. Even in wet and misty conditions, though, it is a delight to walk on and to anticipate the first glimpse of the Cove. Near Airton, after watching a Goosander Duck with its chicks, we startled a Roe Deer, which stood mesmerised for a couple of seconds before running off into the woods.
Bob has many idiosyncrasies, some quite worrying, but none more so than an addiction to The Archers. Craving his daily dose of class-ridden inanity, he carries a tiny radio so as not to miss an episode. Brian, Shula and Fallon’s antics from Ambridge are compulsory listening whatever the location or conditions. I think it is all that farmyard sex that attracts him. It is probably his age. We were in Malham well before the two o’clock edition.
Malham was crawling with children on Geography Field Studies. Keen souls, anxious for our co-operation in completing their questionnaires, hounded us at every turn.
“What was the occasion and reason for your visit to the Yorkshire Dales National Park?”
“Quiet contemplation,” “To get away from kids,” were the helpful replies replied.
Malham YHA didn’t open until five and our inquisitors were in residence. We took the sensible course and opted for a night in a B & B. The Beck Hole was a comfy and good value choice. We had plenty of time in the afternoon to play tourist, wash and dry our gear and have an evening’s snooze: heaven.
Malham’s pubs are pretty good too, although a bit on the pricey side. The Lister Arms even had a fair smattering of locals in the bar - usually a good sign.
Accommodation:Beck Hall Guest House,Malham (01729 890332)
simon@beckhallmalham.com
http://www.beckhallmalham.com/
£24.00
The stay was at one of the best value establishments on the entire trip.
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