Day 15: From Longbyre (Greenhead) to Twice Brewed - 7 miles

Today’s walk would either be a half-day amble along the wall, or a twenty-mile plus hike through lonely moors and forests, to the valley of the North Tyne at Bellingham. The weather forecast was not good and yesterday’s hike had taken a toll on our energy levels; the saunter won the contest: we decided on a semi rest day.

It might only be a morning’s hike, but it was one of unerring quality and a surprisingly energetic one too. The climb to the wall passes beneath Thirwall Castle, itself built of stones recycled from Hadrian’s Wall and ripe with memories of the centuries-long border wars with the Scots. The Wall is unique. Despite the remains being at best fragmentary, they retain the capacity to evoke the power of ancient Rome. Even the weakest and most enfeebled imagination must stir to the ambiance of the stones: even Bob was quite impressed… probably.

The mist stayed down, denying long views along, and from, the Wall and drenching all it touched. Whatever was lost in scenic qualities was more than compensated for by the Wall's sheer atmosphere in the gloom. The weather deterred many other visitors to the monument; only occasional figures loomed out of the mist like legionnaires patrolling the lonely ramparts. Often these figures were hikers walking the length of Hadrian’s Wall along the new National Trail.

The map fails to properly communicate the sheer energy needed to walk along the Wall’s many and steep undulations. It is hard work.

We had intended to stay at the Once Brewed Youth Hostel, but with the day’s walk finished early, we couldn’t resist a lazy afternoon and a discounted price at the neighbouring Twice Brewed Inn.

When we arrived, the pub was having a busy lunchtime session, with most of the clientèle noisily concentrated at one end of the bar around a TV: the England versus Argentina World Cup football tie was on live from South Korea. Not being a soccer fan, I ate my snack at the opposite end of the long and narrow room, my only nearby company being a reserved Scottish couple. Whilst pleading indifference to the tournament and a disinterest in football, they professed an (unconvincing) wish for a home country victory.

I swear they flinched when England scored just before half time.

Accommodation: Twice Brewed Inn (01434 344534)

£18.00

The pub has seen better days, but the rooms were adequate and the food and beer were OK.